Monday, February 24, 2014

Playing with Pattern Alteration

Clothing has seldom fit me the way I would like it to. We all have this problem because one size just doesn't fit all.  In my last post I put up some pictures of an historical pattern I'm trying to get to fit me. The pattern is fine except for some gaping at the neckline that I want to get rid of. I don't want to hide it I want it gone.

I've played around a little bit with getting a pattern to fit me, even had a class that taught me quite a bit, but this fix seems to be a bit more of a challenge and not an uncommon one...gaping fabric at the neckline.  The bodice on this dress has a 1.5" gaping at the neck front. That's a lot. Now, granted, this pattern is taken from a 1870's workdress that most probably didn't fit any better than this does me, but it fits me so well everywhere else there just must be a way to get that gaping out so the button band lays neatly against my chest front.

I've taken some suggestions and tried some slash and pivot techniques, but I'm really in a completely new arena here, I'm just unsure of what I'm supposed to be doing. 

So the suggestion was to take a pleat in the neckline taking out the excess fabric there. Slash the pattern down to the underbust pleasts and let the excess fabric from the reduction in the neck land there...easy enough to deal with by taking the pleats in a little more or adding another one...but then what does one do with the changes in the pattern lines at the neckline, armscye and waistline...let me show you what I mean.

I've made the pivots keeping the Center Front on the straight of grain.


So what does one do at this point? Do we true up those changes in the neckline and the armscye? Or does that put one back to where we were at the start...this may seem a really silly question, but when you're only grasping the concept by the outside edges...it's really not all that silly :). 

So that's where I stand to date, still working on it...


2 comments:

  1. Where are the crowds of comments? What an informative & interactive blog this is becoming... love it !

    I am not sure, even with your great description how the pivot technique works... and I assume you're working with the muslin, or is it the dress fabric?

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  2. I'm working with tissue paper to alter the original pattern, then I will cut out the altered pattern from the tissue paper and try that on to see if the alterations worked as I wanted them to. :) Go here: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4498/the-merits-of-a-basic-fitting-pattern/page/all and look at the diagram for "what you need to know for pivoting darts" to show what I'm trying to do here. It's a method to move excess fabric from one place and redistribute it to another...i.e. me taking the extra fabric in the neckline and putting it in the bust pleats. :)

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